Ferries in Greece

January 5, 2008 by travbudy

Greek Ferries, a comprehensive guide in order to help you plan and organize your trip to the Greek islands using the ferry. Once you have concluded to the itinerary of your choice you may use our real time online booking engine to book your ferry tickets both for passengers and your vehicle with all major ferry companies in Greece and Italy (Adriatic routes).  are the primary means of transport to and from the islands, and the trip is an experience to be savored, like a cruise (sometimes). Islands like Lesvos, Rhodes and Crete are best reached by ferry because the trip is overnight and it’s like being in a big moving hotel. A really nice cabin for two should cost about 120 euros or so. Santorini should be appoached by ferry for the view which is breathtaking and worth the 8-10 hour trip, especially if you can get there in the lateafternoon. Unless of course you don’t like being on boats in which case no view is worth 8-10 hours of boredom punctuated by the arrivals and departures from the other islands on the Santorini route. The routes that you can book include all major ports and their connections such as: Aegiali, Aegina, Agios Constantinos, Agios Efstratios, Agkistri, Agios Kirikos, Alexandroupoli, Alonissos, Anafi, Andros, Antikythira, Argostoli, Astypalea, Chania, Chios, Corfu, Donoussa, Evdilos, Folegandros, Fourni, Glossa, Gythio, Heraklion, Hermioni, Hydra, Igoumenitsa, Ios, Iraklia, Ithaki, Kalamata, Kalymnos, Karlovassi, Katapola, Kavala, Kea, Kylini, Kimolos, Kissamos, Kos, Koufonissi, Kymi, Kythira, Kythnos, Lavrio, Leonidio, Leros, Lesvos, Limnos, Lixuri, Methana, Milos, Monemvasia, Mykonos, Naxos, Neapolis, Nisyros, Paros, Patmos, Patra, Piraeus, Poros, Porto Heli, Psara, Rafina, Rethimno, Rhodes, Sami, Samothraki, Schinoussa, Serifos, Sifnos, Sikinos, Skiathos, Skopelos, Souvala, Spetses, Symi, Syros, Thessaloniki, Thira, Thirassia, Tilos, Tinos, Vathi, Volos.

There seems to be quite a demand for ferry schedules for the Greek islands. Every time I get my hands on a travel agent directory the schedules are out of date. Someone told me about a website that has the schedules but when I went there all they had were the hydrofoils. Another site offered to send the software for the ferry schedules that would be continuously updated, so I ordered one (it cost $30) but I never heard from them. So I bought a copy of Naytemporiki  which is the newspaper of the merchant marine and for three days I copied the ferry schedules. It was boring and tedious but I thought in the end it would save me work because when people ask me for the times of a specific boat I can just send them to that page. That schedule lasted a week before it changed completely.In addition, with our booking engine you can buy your ferry tickets for all lines connecting Greece and Italy between the following ports: Igoumenitsa, Corfu, Patras and Ancona, Bari, Brindisi, Venice

As you may or may not have heard, a few years ago Minoan Lines bought just about every ferry company in the Cyclades with all the money they made off the Greek stock market. Then as you may have heard the stock market crashed leaving everyone scrambling and many in debt. Right about that time the older ferries reached their age limit for service and had to be retired but now this old-ferry-rich but cash-poor company had no money to replace them. Of course it did not help when one of the ferries sunk and the owner of the company jumped out the window but in a country where a ferry owner can shoot another ferry owner, go to jail for a couple years and then get out and start a new ferry company, this is relatively normal. In the meantime the big beautiful highspeeds bought by NEL, of which they were so proud (people in small boats hate them because of the waves they create) had been repossessed by the bank. So the two aging ferries Mytilini and Theofilos (this boat needs to be retired) were pretty much carrying the company. But help was on the way. Hellenic Seaways, Blue Star Ferries, Minoan Lines, NEL Lines, ANEK Ferries, Super Fast Ferries, Aegean Speed Lines, GA Ferries, Ionian Ferries, Ventouris Sea Lines, Lane Lines
 was sold to another company, their highspeeds began running again and they even bought the old inter-island ferries that connect the Cyclades doing a different route every week, known as the ‘agonia’ routes (which mean just they way they sound: long, slow and torturous but sometimes the only way to get to a neighboring island without going back to Pireaus). Minoan changed their name and are now Hellenic Seaways and seem to be doing quite well as are Blue Star with their modern fleet of ships.

So what is the current state of the Greek ferries? Actually its pretty good considering. Lots of new fast boats joining the fleet and old ones finally being retired or sold to some far away country that does not have the same standards and laws about how long a ship can remain in service, replacing them when they finally sink. The Blue Star Lines, NEL and Hellenic Seaways have gobbled up the lucrative (popular) routes and the other companies with their older ships have settled for the dregs and are making a go of it. There are a few boats that have reached the end of their careers and look like it but for the most part the ferry experience is a pretty good one. The new boats are not only bigger and faster but cancellations are less frequent since no ferry company wants to lose money by keeping a boat from sailing. So cancellations can only happen when the Greek Port Authority believes it is too dangerous to sail, (rare in the summer but it happens) or if a ship breaks down.

If you are planning to go to several islands you may want to consider going to those with regular connections to each other. What does that mean exactly? Well look at the schedules (like in the Athens News) and notice which islands a particular ferry goes to. Generally those are the islands you will have no trouble finding service between. For example if you go to Mykonos you will find it easy to go to Syros and Tinos. Santorini has daily connections to Paros and Naxos. In the summer there is a daily boat between Santorini and Crete. Sifnos has daily boats to Milos, Serifos and Kythnos. Rhodes is connected daily to Patmos, Leros, Kalymnos and Kos. Lesvos has daily ferries to and from Chios. And my little island of Kea has no daily connections to anywhere except Lavrion.  If you have a week to spend on the islands pick the one you like best and take day trips around the island and to nearby islands or visit an island on your way back. In my opinion ‘island hopping’ is over-rated.  You may have a richer experience by getting to know one island in depth, than bouncing around from one port to the next.
Ferry Schedules on the Internet
How accurate are the schedules you find on the net? A few years ago the Minoan office did not even know they had a Flying Cat going to Paros until a customer called Dolphin Hellas Travel to report that he was standing in front of one that was leaving in 10 minutes. When Dolphin called Minoan to ask about it, they insisted there was none. Clearly a case of one hand not knowing what the other is doing. So if the ferry companies themselves don’t know then how can do the schedules
how is it that in this modern age a simple thing like a ferry schedule can be so unsure? Well as it was explained to me, the ferry companies submit their proposed schedule for the week to the ministry 2 weeks in advance for approval. So if you are booking in January for a trip in July the schedules posted are not approved which means they can be changed. So in other words it is a ‘projected’ ferry schedule. If you are going to a popular island with several ferries a day then booking a ticket on-line is not such a risk. The worst that could happen is there will be a slight hassle of exchanging it for another ticket on a ferry leaving that day. But if you are going to an island that does not have daily connections to Pireaus or another island that you are planning to go to and have booked your hotel then you may have problems.Yes we all love the ease in which we can go to a website and click on a few hotels and have an instant holiday on the Greek islands. As someone wrote to me “I have successfully booked my hotels through exped-o-locity and now I need to book my ferries”. My reply was “how do you know you were successful?” Nine out of ten e-mails I get are cries for help from people who have booked hotels and now can’t find the ferries to go with them or vice-versa.

 The Athens News now has the weekly ferry schedules from Pireaus, Rafina and Lavrion so get a copy at the newstand in the airport when you arrive or at most kiosks and newstands in Athens. This won’t help if you are trying to book your trip from outside of Greece but it is good to know anyway and for backpackers and those who are completely flexible it is very helpful. The Kathimerini which is inside the International Herald Tribune has the daily schedules but by the time you read it the majority of the boats have already left. You can also find them  Ferry TicketsIf you are contacting a travel agent to book just ferry tickets, good luck. They probably won’t do it. The commissions are too low and it’s too much work for nothing. However they do it for the customers who book accommodations with them. If you are going deck (don’t take it literally. It just means without a cabin, usually the cheapest ticket) you can usually buy your tickets a day before and in many cases right at the boat. Cabins you will need to do in advance. As you may have figured out, the people who book their accommodations in advance with an agency will most likely have the cabins booked up before you get there. Anyway it’s only the overnight boats that you will need a cabin for. Go for the 1st class ones or the Lux, especially if you are a couple. The 2nd class cabins are not co-ed. What that means is that you may end up in a cabin with 3 strangers (though all of the same sex). If you are 3 people in a cabin of 4 you can find yourself with a roomate you don’t know. But you have the option of buying that last berth for half price.

Dolphin has a site for booking tickets which I recommend using if you are traveling with a car, want a cabin, coming from or going to Italy, or are traveling during a busy weekend or in August.  which will also tell you when it is recommended that you buy ferry tickets in advance and when it is OK to just buy them when you get to Greece or even at the boat.

There are now companies that sell ferry tickets that advertise on the internet that are worth checking out. Its probably a good idea to try several before you settle on one in case some ferry companies are represented on one website and not on another. Be sure to read the section on ticket pick-up and delivery before you book.

Flying Dolphins are more like planes than ferries and serve the Saronic Islands. You sit in airplane seats and unless you stand by the door and watch the islands go by it’s like being on a turbulant jet flight. There are windows but they are always covered with salt and spray and you can’t see anything. The giant high-speed catamarans and modern super ferries like the Aeolis Express are like being on a modern spaceship on the sea. There are rows of comfortable seats, tables, TVs, game rooms, and snack bars with pretty decent food. Not as good as the restaurants on the overnight ferries but spanakopitas, sandwiches and if you are on a good one terrific coffee and espresso. They are also more expensive but you can be in Mykonos harbor in about 3 hours and Sifnos in about 2 and a half hours. You can be in Santorini in about 5 on the high speed catamarans. You can even be in Lesvos or Crete in six hours. But you have to ask yourself would you rather be sitting in an airplane seat for 6 hours and arrive late at night and have to pay for a hotel? Or would you rather have a cabin, have a nice meal in the ship’s restaurant, go to the lounge for a drink, go to your cabin and read and then fall asleep and wake up the next morning on the island? It’s kind of a no-brainer if you ask me.

The cheapest way to go is deck. There are air-conditioned lounges to hang out in and airplane seats so you don’t have to literally be on the deck being lashed by wind and high seas (rare). But if you have a sleeping bag and it’s a night ferry, there is no better place to be then under the stars with a bottle of wine and some fellow travelers.

For those young people traveling deck who are musicians take note of this simple equation:
Guitar+ferry+wine = friends or even true love(for a week or two anyway).

Buying Ferry Tickets
If you are a budget traveler, backpacker or student, going deck even on the overnight trips is the way to do it. (Even on the Greece-Italy ferries). Plus you won’t need to buy ferry tickets in advance except for certain days.
Those  certain days are:
1) The Thursday and Friday before Easter
2) the Friday of Agios Pnevmatos (Holy Spirit) which is like our memorial day weekend, a moveable feast that happens sometime in the beginning of June, a good time to just stay in Athens
3) The last Thursday, Friday and Saturday of July and the beginning of August which is the month when every Athenians and Thessalonikian who can afford it leaves the cities for the islands. Getting out of Athens can be a miserable experience if you don’t have a ferry ticket and sometimes even if you do. The boats are packed. Again this is a good time to be in Athens.
4) The Thursday and Friday of the weekend of August 15th when anyone who did not leave Athens by August 1st will be going to the island for the big holiday weekend.

Two important things to think about. Coming back to Athens after these weekends is a tough ticket too, as is returning the last couple days of August. And a warning to Mykonos travelers. You will notice that these are religious holidays for the most part and this will affect you more than those going to other islands. That’s because the island of Tinos is the Lourdes of Greece and it is on the same ferry route as Mykonos. For those going to Lesvos I have bad news for you. The second holiest place is Agiassos and the ferries are filled with pilgrims preceding those holidays. You can get tickets if you book in advance but if you meander down to Pireaus and expect to get on a boat you may find yourself back on the metro looking for a hotel for your weekend in Athens.

Ferry Tickets for Greek Island Travelers Using Greek Travel Agents
Whether you are booking a package or just using the agency to book your hotels for you they will handle your ferry tickets for you. You probably won’t have to ask but if they don’t mention it then you should because if you have booked your hotels through them there will be no sir-charge and when you arrive at your Athens hotel there will be an envelope waiting for you with a nice little note about when the boat leaves and instructions on getting there and your ferry tickets and vouchers for your hotel on the island. Those getting packages will probably have transportation to and from the airport, hotel and port provided and the agency representative will give you everything and explain what it is.

Travel agents on the internet have no incentive to book ferry tickets alone because they don’t make any money on them. In fact if you factor in the time it takes to call the ferry companies and make sure there is a boat, issue the ticket, mail the ticket and subtract the charge the bank makes them pay for credit card sales, they lose money. It is a service they provide to their customers who book hotels and tours. So if you are trying to book ferry tickets on the web the agency will say no or there will be a sir-charge. (Most likely they will say no).

There are ticket agencies in Pireaus when you get to the boats in the big old buildings at Platia Kariaskaki by the bus station (sort of across from the metro). There are also ticket booths by many of the boats and there is even one right in the metro station and on the street outside. In Athens there are a couple agencies on Nikis street that sell ferry tickets but beware that there are agencies that send hustlers out to track down confused looking tourists and bring them in to sell them packages. If you walk into an agency for ferry tickets and you leave with a cruise you have not been ripped off. It’s like if you went to buy a used Chevy and left the used car lot with a Porsche. The reason you wanted a Chevy is because that is what you could afford but the salesman used all his tricks to get you to buy the Porsche. They may say there are no more ferry tickets, or the island is full, or whatever it takes to get you to do what they want you to do. If I may say this without being too self-serving: if you have spent hours or days on my website and choose to do it on your own rather then work with one of the agencies I recommend and then you go to Athens and get sold a cruise or an expensive hotel package when all you wanted was ferry tickets, then you probably screwed up somewhere.Anyway the point is that if you want a cabin or want to be sure of a seat on a highspeed then buy your tickets in advance and the best way to do that is by booking your hotels with a   Greek Travel Agency. You won’t pay more than by booking directly with the hotels and you won’t have to worry about the tickets or the schedules. Don’t bother trying to get ferry tickets through your local travel agents because they will just e-mail me and ask me how they can get ferry tickets and I will tell them what I just told you.
Free Tourist Information and Greek Ferry Schedules
you can get the weekly ferry and bus schedules, a free map of Greece, a free map of Athens, fares, brochures and so on. Their new office is on Amalias street across from the entrance of the National Gardens, close to the terminal for the coastal tram. You can get maps of Athens at most hotels and some will have the very helpful map of Greece that EOT so generously provides for free. Weekly ferry schedules come out in the Athens News on Friday, for the whole week. You should get a copy as soon as you get to the airport or you arrive in Athens. The weekly ferry schedule also comes out daily  but you have to be able to read Greek. They come out daily in the   which is inserted in the International Herald Tribune but there are two problems. The paper does not come out on Sunday and the schedules are for the day the paper comes out. Most boats leave between 7 and 8am so by the time anyone reads the paper half of them have left. There are websites that have the ferry schedules but they are unreliable. Not the fault of the websites but the ferry companies themselves submit their schedules for the next week with the Ministry of Merchant Marine, or the Ministry of Transportation or maybe it is the Ministry of Pointless Paperwork where it has to be approved. So in other words ferry schedules you read in May for a week in June can’t be accurate because they have not even been submitted yet. The good news is that if you are working with a travel agency in Athens it won’t matter because they can book your hotels and ferries and make the changes if they have to by making endless phone calls. The bad news is that if you are one of those proud people who do their own bookings directly with the hotels or with on-line hotel sites you can find yourself on one island, booked in a hotel on the next, and no ferry to get there. But hey! You saved 4 euro. (Except for the small matter of the Hotel cancelation fee which can be 90% if you cancel the day you were supposed to arrive). But for you hard-nosed troopers I do have some ferry schedules from my beloved   Monthly Tourism Guide and the above mentioned newspapers and though I can’t stand by their accuracy I can give you some idea whether your plan is possible or whether you have booked yourself an impossible holiday.Ferry Prices to the Greek Islands
This is the kind of section I don’t like because if I forget about it and don’t update it then things may have changed. Ferry tickets are cheap if you are going deck. Once you go by highspeed or get a cabin then the price starts going up dramatically. You can figure that if a deck or 3rd class ticket to Mykonos costs 25 euro then the highspeed will cost double that. Overnight ferries like those going to Crete, Rhodes and Lesvos will cost around 35 euro for deck and double that for a cabin. That’s per person for the cheapest cabin. Ferries that go to Aegina are like buses that come and go all day and cost about 4 euro and 8 or 10 for the Flying Dolphins. There are ferry passes but I don’t know anyone who has used them. They may seem like a good idea if you are ‘island-hopping’ but the problem is that if you love the first island you hop to and want to stay there you may feel compelled to leave just to use your ferry pass. (Yes people think like that). Ferries are cheap enough so that when you make up your budget you can off-set the cost of a ferry by skipping a meal or getting a tiropita. Once again if you need to know what the cost is of a particlar ferry you can e-mail me and I can give you a decent estimate if I don’t know the exact price.
 About Greek Island-Hopping
 This word is over-used and the process is over-rated. Back in the old days when Greece was dirt cheap and people had a month or more to wander around the islands and little old ladies would meet the ferry to offer the handful of travelers who got off a room in their homes, island hopping was fun and sort of charming. But let us face the fact that Greece has been discovered and when that happens the little old ladies are shoved aside by guys with signs for their fancy hotels, or the little old ladies themselves have built fancy hotels. More critical though to the difficulty in island hopping is the monopoly of the ferry boat companies who fight over the popular routes and leave the smaller islands with connections to Pireaus and maybe a few islands surrounding them. No longer can you make a list of islands you want to visit and hop on the boat to the first one and make connections to the rest. In some cases an island that you can see from your hotel window in Sifnos (like Paros for example) won’t have a connection, except by going back to Pireaus. You can still island-hop but it now requires some planning. That is why I made up the Create-An-Itinerary-Page which allows you to decide which islands you want to visit and then send in the form and the agency will tell you if it is possible and send you an itinerary with hotels and ferries. You tell them what your budget is and they find the best places to suit it and all you have to do is show up on time for the boats. For me the best way to visit the Greek Islands is to pick one or two that are convenient to each other, experience those and come back next year.
 
Any taxi should know exactly where your boat is and should take you right up to the gang-plank. If you are taking a train from Athens get off at the last stop which is Pireaus. Cross the street outside the train station and if you survive, look for your boat. There is a sign that tells you which boats are in which area. If you are going to the Cyclades you should be able to walk to your ferry easily. There is also the E96 bus from the airport that will take you right to the boats.
 
Mykonos, Syros and Tinos boats are on your left. The high-speed catamaran is there too.
Beyond are the boats to the Saronic Gulf islands of Aegina, Hydra, Poros and Spetsi.
The last boats on your left are to the Dodekanese islands of Patmos, Rhodes, Kalymnos, Kos and for some reason the  Western Cyclades (Serifos, Sifnos, Milos).
To the right of the Cyclades ferries are the boats to Crete, followed by the boats to Lesvos, Chios, and Lemnos on the very end.
The Flying Dolphins leave from Pireaus too (not from Zea anymore) and can be found between the Dodekanese boats and the Saronic islands ferries.
 There is a shuttle bus that you can ride to the more distant boats. For supplies there are shops in the area and a few working class restaurants and fast food places. There is also a big cafe to hang out at on the dock near the Cyclades boats behind where all the city buses park and the ticket agencies are. The cafe has been improved in the last couple years and is open 24 hours, has internet access and even a place to leave your luggage so you don’t have to stay in one place or wander around Pireaus like a lost turtle. This is great for people who arrive in the morning from one island to connect to an afternoon or evening boat. You can dump your stuff and take the metro to Thission and walk up to the Acropolis.

There is luggage storage in at least 2 locations. The first is at Akti Tzelipi, which is behind the ticket offices and the Kariaskaki Square bus station on that penisula that juts out into the harbor. There is a big 24 Cafe-restaurant with an internet cafe too. You can leave your bags and go back into Athens on the metro and visit the Acropolis if you have a few hours to kill (get off at Thission and walk). There are two more of these cafes, one by the Dodecanese (and Sifnos) ferries that has luggage storage and another by the Crete and Lesvos ferries which may also have luggage storage. (I know that I am supposed to know this but maybe someone can check it out and let me know before I go back next summer).
 
Other Ferry Ports for Athens
Other boats leave from Rafina where the ferry trip is two hours shorter (though it takes at least an hour to get to Rafina). These boats go to most of the Cyclades and Andros, which you can’t get to from Pireaus.

They say that in the next couple years many boats will leave from Lavrion. If you are going to Kea (like I do) then you will have to go to Lavrion to get there. It’s a hassle unless you take a cab but you can take a bus from Mavromateon Street at Green Park (parallel to Patission street just past the National Museum and the intersection of Alexandras Avenue.) The buses to Rafina and to Oropos for those of you going to Evia. Besides Kea there are boats from Lavrion to Kythnos and the Agonia (see below) comes here a couple days a week. You can also catch ferries to Samothraki, Thassos, and some other off-beat islands from there.
 
When Ferries Leave
 Almost every island has a daily ferry, even in the winter. The exceptions are places like Astypalia, Kassos, Karpathos, Symi, Folegandros, Amorgos and I think you get the idea. Islands that you have heard of like Mykonos, Santorini, Paros, Naxos and even Sifnos have several ferries a day. Usually there is a regular ferry and a highspeed or two leaving at 7:30. Then sometimes there is a highspeed in the early afternoon and another at 5:30 and a ferry at about 10pm. Overnight boats leave late in the afternoon with the Rhodes and Dodecanesos boats leaving earliest because the trip is longest (17 hours to Rhodes). The Lesvos boats leave around 7pm and the Crete boats around 9pm. The Aegina ferries and Flying Dolphins run continuously from about 6am to 11pm and to a lesser degree so do the boats to Poros, Hydra and Spetses though the last boat probably leaves around 6pm or maybe 8pm at the latest. You have a better chance of there being a late afternoon or night boat to the Cyclades on a Friday for weekenders. As for returning any boat that goes to an island will come back. Finding when is easier on the islands. There is an exception to these and this is called the Agonia Route. The word means fruitless or unprofitable. This is the boat that hits all the islands including the ones that the only people who go there are those who live there. In some cases you will have to take this boat to get from one island to another. When you look at the ferry schedule in the Athens News pay attention to the islands that your boat is going to. If your island is the last of fifteen or so then this is the Agonia and you may be in a little agonia yourself by the time you reach your island. But for those who love ferries and can afford a cabin the Agonia can be like a multi-island cruise. There is an agonia boat that leaves from Syros almost every day that in the course of the week visits all the Cyclades. You can usually catch it once or twice a week in Lavrion too.
 
Traveling on the Ferry Boats in Greece
 Many of the ferries that go to the islands are very modern with carpets, air-conditioned cabins, lounges, bars, restaurants, video-game parlors and so on. My favorite boat is the NEL Lines MYTILINI which has won several awards from Greek ferry boat fans and enthusiasts as the best ship in the Aegean. Not only does it have the same qualities of the nicer ferries that go to Crete or the Patras-Italy routes, but the staff are extra friendly and really go out of their way to be helpful. Probably because most of the crew comes from the island of Lesvos where the company is based and people are just generally friendly. My advice if you are taking this boat is ask for a cabin with a window and a television. It’s an overnight trip, leaving around 7pm and arriving in Lesvos at 8am.
The New Express Aiolis, shown in the photo at the very top of this page is the fastest ferry in the Aegean and does the 12 hour trip to Lesvos in six hours. It also goes to the Cyclades islands of Syros, Tinos and Mykonos. It is like a giant speedboat. It is as modern looking inside as it looks on the outside.
 
 There are a few older boats that are being phased out. There is a 35 year limit on how old a ship can be. Some of them despite their age are more comfortable than the newer ones. Others are pretty bad but usually they are on shorter routes so you won’t have to suffer long. The Blue Star ferries are big and modern. Not exactly highspeeds but somewhere in between. For long trips you can be on the worst boat and if you get the most expensive cabin (which can be as cheap as 10 euros more per-person than a normal first class cabin) you won’t care. Plus some of the older boats have the best food, sort of like eating in a working class restaurant near Omonia. So if you are on an old boat don’t freak out. There are positives and negatives about all ferries.

For those who get seasick and are dreading the trip these ferries are big and it takes pretty rough seas to bounce you around and when it gets that rough they don’t let the boats leave the port until it calms down. This does not happen very often in the summer. You can buy dramamine over the counter and even just taking half of one helps if you are prone to sea-sickness. As for the ferry sinking, another common fear, keep in mind that the Greeks are the most renown sea-men in the world with the biggest fleet of ships and it is more likely that you will choke to death on a piece of bread, and you are probably not afraid of bread.
 
Returning from the Greek Islands by Ferry Boat
 If you know when you have to leave then buy your ticket in the first day or so that you are on the island. There are ticket offices in the ports. Keep in mind that some of these are competing agencies and may represent different companies so get the schedules from them all before you decide when you are leaving. Some agents will say there is no boat rather than tell you there is a boat but not his boat. For those who have to fly back home emmediately after their island trip plan to spend the last night in a hotel in Athens even if you have an afternoon or evening flight. You don’t want to miss your plane if the ferry is delayed or go through the stress of a close-call. Most people who spend their last night in Athens end up loving it. Getting a taxi from the ferry in Pireaus to your hotel or the airport can be difficult. Usually there are a couple hundred people getting off the boat and half a dozen taxis waiting. If I am on the ferry one of the taxis is for me. I always book a transfer from the ferry to my hotel because sometimes I just don’t feel like lugging my bags to the metro and I definitely don’t feel like competing for the few taxis available. 

If you are taking the Metro from Athens you will be getting off where the little bus is, just to the left of this key.
The first boats you will see are for the Western Cyclades (Kithnos,Serifos, Sifnos , Milos , Kimilos, Santorini , Ios,Folegandros) and Ikaria and Samos.
The Green boats are to the Eastern Cyclades ( Paros , Naxos , Amorgos, Astypalia, Ios , Santorini and some of the smaller islands)
The red boats are to Syros , Tinos and Mykonos .
The little blue boats that you can barely see go to Aegina , Poros , Hydra , Spetsi, Angistri,Methena and Salomina. The Flying Dolphins are here too.
These boats on the bottom of the map go to the Dodekanese islands of Patmos, Leros, Kalymnos , Kos , Rhodes, Kastalorezo, Simi , Tilos and even to Thessaloniki.
 

leros travel guide

January 5, 2008 by travbudy

If the fine beaches and excellent traditional tavernas on Leros aren’t enough to keep you occupied during your stay here you’ll find plenty of historic sites, ancient castles and pretty churches and chapels to explore.

Stroll round the wide, tree-lined boulevards of the main port of Lakki to marvel at what remains of Mussolini’s vision of turning the former island capital into a fascist dream town. The Italians occupied the island between 1912 until the Second World War, setting up a naval base in Lakki Bay (one of the biggest natural harbours in the Mediterranean). Mussolini ordered his architects and planners to create a showcase town of grandiose Art Deco buildings designed to reflect the “glory” of his fascist regime. These days the neglected buildings look like something out of an abandoned Italian film set. The former Italian naval base at Lepida, to the south of Lakki, is now a state hospital and its grounds contain a mansion once used as the dictator’s summer retreat.

In defiance of their Italian masters, the islanders abandoned Lakki and made the village of Platanos their capital. The picturesque, whitewashed village is the main shopping centre of the island and is dominated by the impressive Byzantine Castle of Our Lady. You can reach it via a stepped path leading up from the village’s central square – the spectacular view from the battlements makes the climb well worth the effort. The castle houses the medieval church of Panagia tou Kastrou which contains a supposedly miraculous icon and a small museum with various religious artifacts.

Platanos spills down the hill to the working fishing port of Pandeli where you can enjoy a superb fresh fish lunch. The road north leads to the bustling port of Agia Marina which is the arrival and departure point for hydrofoils and catamarans. This is one of the best places to eat on the island and is a popular stopping off point for visiting yachties.

West along the bay from Agia Marina you come to the seaside resort of Krithoni where the well-kept Allied War Graves Cemetery is a poignant place of pilgrimage for families whose loved ones died in the Battle of Leros in 1943. The cemetery contains the graves of 179 British, two Canadian and two South African servicemen who died fighting the Germans after the Italians surrendered.

Relics from the battle can be seen at the Historic and Folk Museum at the nearby beach resort of Alinda. The collection is housed in the twin-towered Belenis Castle which was the former mansion home of the museum’s expatriate benefactor Paris Belenis

Seven kilometres north west of Alinda near the airport you’ll find the ancient ruins of the Temple of Artemis – the goddess of hunting who reputedly made Leros her home. There’s not a great deal to see in terms of an insight into the day-to-day life of a goddess (just some crumbling walls) but the views are dramatic.

Skopelos travel guide

January 5, 2008 by travbudy

Skopelos is one of the Greek Sporades Islands located in the Aegean Sea, 121 kilometres north east of the mainland port of Agios Konstantinos (which is 166 kilometres north of Athens). It’s a beautiful pine-forested island with an interior carpeted with groves of olive, almond and plum trees. It’s neither as commercialised as neighbouring Skiathos nor as untouched as tranquil Alonissos. The package holiday industry has firmly established itself here but the islanders have shown dogged determination in refusing to allow Skopelos to be entirely swallowed up by mass tourism. The island boasts two of the most picturesque towns in the Sporades, many good pebble beaches and some wonderful walks for keen hikers.

Skopelos is a delight to explore by day with its lush, green interior criss-crossed by ancient paths which lure hikers, bikers and horse riders ever deeper into the densely forested countryside. The island is awash with olive groves, plum, pear and almond orchards along with swathes of tall pines which sweep down to secluded coves. Follow the dirt tracks to the myriad of monasteries and churches which speckle Skopelos and take the time to browse the streets of the island’s two main settlements which rate among the most charming towns in the Greek islands.

If you’re staying outside Skopelos Town it’s worth spending at least a day or two exploring the captivating and convoluted streets of this enchanting port town which boasts no less than 123 churches, many fine old mansions and some irresistible tiny shops selling local produce such as honey, prunes and home-made sweets
There’s no airport on the island but you can fly to Skiathos which is a one-hour hydrofoil ride away. Frequent ferries and Flying Dolphins connect Skopelos with Agios Konstantinos and there are also services to and from both Thessaloniki and the Pelion Peninsula on the Greek mainland.

Bars, cafes and craft shops line the waterfront and as you venture into the back streets you’ll delightful walkways, studded with pebbles and sea shells, winding their way up to the Venetian fortress which crowns the town. If you’re interested in the local churches you can get a map pinpointing their whereabouts from helpful Thalpos Travel on the waterfront. The church nearest the ruined castle is Agios Athanasios which was built in the 11th century and houses some fine 16th century frescoes. The castle itself was originally built by King Philip of Macedon in the 4th century BC and rebuilt by the Venetians who ruled the island for 300 years from 1204.

The town has a plentiful supply of craft, souvenir, antique and jewellery shops where you can ferret for unusual gifts including loom-woven textiles made by the local nuns. For an insight into a traditional Skopelan house, visit the Folklore Museum which has a range of local costumes, embroidery and furniture on display in a 19th century mansion behind the harbourfront.

Of the island’s 40 monasteries, five are clustered in the hills above Skopelos Town and can be visited either on foot or on a coach tour organised by one of the local travel agencies. Most of the monasteries have wonderful views of the island and at two of them – Moni Evangelistrias and Moni Timiou Prodromou – you can buy handicrafts made by the nuns who live there.

A monastery well worth visiting in the north of the island is Agios Ioannis which perches quite spectacularly on a boulder above the sea. If you’re a keen hiker you can make a four-hour round trip from the lovely hilltop town of Glossa which is a must on your list of places to visit. The town is blissfully peaceful and unspoilt, still very Greek in character but with remnants of the Venetian and Turkish occupations. The whitewashed, red-roofed houses cling to a steep hillside above the island’s second port of Loutraki.

Seafood fans should take a trip out to the small port of Agnontas at the southern end of the island, where locals come to dine at the fish tavernas alongside the pebble beach.

If you’re interested in the local marine life, book yourself on a weekend cruise of the National Marine Park which incorporates the nearby island of Alonissos and surrounding islets. You’ll be provided with binoculars, snorkeling gear and equipment to record dolphin signals and if you’re lucky you may spot some of the endangered Mediterranean Monk Seals which inhabit these waters. The trip is aboard a large caique captained by a marine biologist who makes the experience both educational and fun. You can make reservations through Madro Travel opposite the ferry dock in Skopelos Town
 

Boats stop at both the port of Loutraki in the north west corner of the island and at Skopelos Town on the east coast. Ferry schedules often refer to Loutraki as Glossa which is the name of the lovely hill top town above the not particularly inspiring port. Both Glossa and Skopelos Town are delightful in their own ways – the former is unspoilt, totally Greek and steadfast in its resistance to all the more obvious trappings of tourism. Skopelos Town is awash with bars, cafes, gift shops and travel agencies but it’s still one of the loveliest towns in the archipelago with narrow cobbled streets winding up from the waterfront to the hilltop Venetian castle. The town has no fewer than 123 churches and some lovely traditional houses with brown timber balconies adorned with vivid bougainvillea and brightly coloured pot plants.

The island’s verdant countryside is littered with numerous impressive monasteries, many of which are in spectacular locations. Most are deserted but some are still inhabited by nuns who offer their loom-woven textiles for sale to a steady stream of summer visitors.

If you explore the interior you’ll also come across many old stone houses, called “kalyvia”, nestling amid the pine and cypress woods. The houses have distinctive outdoor ovens in which the islanders used to bake plums to produce the prunes for which Skopelos was once famous. You’ll still find prunes served up in various guises at tavernas all over the island.

Most of the island’s beaches are pebbled and the best are scattered along the south and west coasts. At Agnondas on the south coast you can join the locals for a fresh fish lunch at one of the many tavernas lining the beach. Panormos on the west coast is a full-blown holiday resort with plentiful hotels, tavernas, watersports and other tourist facilities. But if it’s solitude you crave, don a pair of sturdy walking shoes or take a water taxi from Skopelos Town and you’ll be able to find numerous secluded coves

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January 5, 2008 by travbudy

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